Holy Crap, the Pyramids

The Great Pyramids
Giza, Egypt

It has been a goal of mine to not only travel to six continents, (I will leave Antarctica to the researchers and the penguins) but to visit the Wonders of the World. Part of the reason I chose to teach in Cairo was to live in one of the earliest civilizations. Perfect for a history teacher nerd like myself.  #WHAP (shout out to my sophomore AP classes)

When I travel, I am a big fan of eye witnessing iconic structures. Suzette Mendonca can attest to this as I made her take way too many photos of me posing in front of the Acropolis. It is not until I stare in awe at the Eiffel Tower that I truly feel like I am in Paris. The Golden Gate Bridge still takes my breath away when I am in San Francisco. So, I did not feel like I was in Egypt until I saw 

1. the Nile River 

2. the Great Pyramids in Giza. 

The veteran and newbie ex-pats set off to Giza, a city located just outside of Cairo. Even though we left around eight in the morning, I was already moist from the desert humidity. And because I am a female in an Arab country, I faced the heat in more clothing than I would like to wear in the summer-skinny jeans and a sleeved shirt with a long sleeved shirt in case we were traveling to more conservative areas. After paying the entrance fee, we walked through the gates (and a metal detector). Up to this point, I had only seen the pyramids from afar. So when I set my eyes on this ancient wonder of the world, my profound  and thoughtful comment was "Holy Crap, the Pyramids." 

Even though it was at this moment I felt I was in Egypt, the experience was still surreal to me. I couldn't believe that I had actually made it here, to a place I had only seen in travel books and google image searches, a place that I had only taught my students about at Kimball High School. I was so excited that my childhood instincts kicked in, as I climbed without fear up to the point where the armed gunmen were posted. I wanted to share this experience on social media, hence my new Facebook profile picture. I love that picture because it captures one of the first moments that I truly felt at peace to be living in Egypt.

What I found so interesting though is that contrary to Wikipedia, the Pyramids are not necessarily in the middle of nowhere like so many images suggest. The city of Giza is within viewing distance from the pyramids. One can take a short taxi ride and have KFC and Pizza Hut for lunch, which takes away a bit of the exoticism and mysticism of this historical site.

I was also surprised when I went inside one of the pyramids. It is not one big open space, but merely a narrow and claustrophobic tunnel to a few tombs, most of which have been closed off. But still, freaking awesome. We took a short camel ride to the Sphinx, which I thought was much further away. However, I learned that the Sphinx was built to protect the Pyramids, which surprisingly paled in comparison to the size of the pyramids.                   

I am sure before the Arab Spring, there were tour buses upon tour buses here. But it was not even crowded and therefore the merchants were even more willing to take our money. Which leads me to introduce you to Hadi. Hadi is an excellent photographer, capturing angles I never knew were even possible (please see below). The great thing was that Hadi simply offered to take as many photos as we wanted to. I was going to be generous and give him a 20 Egyptian pound tip. But when I handed him the money, he looked at me and said, "What is this? I charge 200 Egyptian pounds for my photography services." Needless to say that he would do well as a venture capitalist in the States. Not knowing what to do and slightly intimidated by him, my friend Michelle gave him a bit of extra money. We went back and told our tour guide and fellow middle school colleague Hanan what had happened. And it was amazing because she totally laid the smack down on him, scolding him for being so selfish and taking advantage of tourists. With his shoulders slouched and his head down, he looked defeated and gave me all of my money back. I told him to keep the original amount that I had tipped him and then we were on our way for some lunch-which the aftermath of the beef schwarma deserves another blog post.

    

thanks for reading & ma'a salama, 

hillstead 

An American in Cairo

sporting a berlin t-shirt & rocking the two-finger point
ma'adi (cairo) egypt 

It has been nearly two weeks since I arrived in Cairo. I am learning and experiencing something totally new everyday. Based on my observations, I have compiled a list of desirable and less-than-desirable attributes of this city. And instead of focusing on what Cairo does not have as or what I as a narrow-minded, Americentric woman view as culturally "wrong," I changed my perspective and wrote down cultural norms of the States that I miss.  

Cairo has...

• Otlob-an incredible free smartphone app available for those living in Egypt. Without speaking any Arabic, you are able to order any type of food from any type of restaurant online. This food will be delivered to your home. Pay your deliveryman in cash with a few pounds tip and get back to watching the latest episode of The Mindy Project.  
• Drinkies-dial five numbers and an English speaking operator will take your adult libations order. From the online menu, choose from a selection of chilled beer, wine & spirits. Pay your deliveryman in cash with a few pounds tip and get back to grading papers. 
• "A guy for that"-groceries from Metro Market too heavy? There's a guy to deliver them to your home. Too lazy to do laundry and fold your clothes? There's a guy for that.  
• Laws against honking car horn-definitely not enforced  
• Sheep and goats that walk down the streets-have you ever "herd" of such a thing? 
• Donkeys on the highways-riders do not have to worry about rising gas prices or their carbon footprint    
• Warm evenings-I love wearing t-shirts outside at night (and pants)  
• Men in the back of trucks-an old fashioned carpool 
• Unfinished housing developments-who wants to move to Cairo? 
• KFC/Pizza Hut-restaurant combo nearby the Great Pyramids in case you want to feel even more like an American.    
• Stray animals-who wants to adopt a kitty? #kittenmittons  

Things I miss about America... 

• Consistent Power-please refer to blog post two
• Stop signs and Stop Lights-I have literally seen only one flashing stop light since I have been here 
• Crosswalks-I have literally not seen one since I have been here (positive spin-I feel so alive when I cross the street) 
• Personal Space-this lady was all up in my grill as I was waiting in line at Carrefour at the Cairo Festival City mall. Like, her body was pressed up to my backside and there was no one in line behind her  
• Seat Belts-virtually non-existent in the back of Cairo taxis. But I feel safe because the drivers don't even wear them.
• Punctuality-are white people the weird ones for showing up on time?   
• Cheap Local Bars-in Ma'adi, it is difficult to even find restaurants that serve alcohol. But, you can pay for a taxi, pay for entrance to ex-pat clubs like ACE and BCA, pay for a drink or two & pay for a taxi home.  
• Paved Roads and Highway Lanes-a good idea in Cairo to wear a sports bra and take a snooze on the bus ride into work  
• Driving-I feel like I am back in middle school here, relying on someone else to take me to the movie theater or cosmic bowling  

Before I go...

It has been incredible to receive not only readers of my latest blogs, but positive feedback about my writing. I feel so privileged to be supported and loved by you. Thank you from the bottom of my heart. I hope that I will continue to brighten your day with humor and cultural enlightenments.    


ma'a salama, 
hillstead  

Happy HumpDay

A camel I shall name...Roy

Giza, Egypt    

Some Camel "Facts"...

1. The best advice given to me was a hip hop song circa 2005 by the Terror Squad featuring Fat Joe:  "Lean Back" when a camel stands and sits.

2. The nickname given to a woman wearing very tight pants is accurate.

3. Camels are wider than horses, so try not to straddle one.

4. Even though it is touristy, it is totally worth it to ride a camel in the desert.

5. It is hot as balls in Egypt. (thanks C-money)

Ma'a salama,
hillstead

I've (not) Got the Power

My view from the Cilantro cafe

What an ideal opportunity to write to you this evening. I am sitting in the back of Cilantro, enjoying my luke warm 7up because I am hesitant to eat the ice (more on BMs later). As if I am not white enough, my laptop is literally making me glow in this darkness compared to the beautiful olive skin that Mediterranean men and women are blessed with. 

Cairo has been experiencing multiple power outages over the past months and they seem to be increasing as the summer progresses. Each power outage lasts about an hour and then moves on to the next block of victims. This cycle is repeated at least five times a day. Luckily, for those who have had the pleasure of knowing what my refridgerator looks like, I do not need to worry about any food spoiling.  

There are several theories as to why the outages occur, but I am paranoid that Big Brother is paying attention and therefore I will not share said theories. So, instead of asking questions, I sweat as I sleep at night, hoping the air conditioner will click on to 20 degrees Celsius. And what's worse...when there is no wifi to stream the last four episodes of Orange is the New Black. I try to fill my time as much as possible outside my apartment...guess who went to the mall today? #scentedcandles   

Flat 20 by light

I have an opportunity to embrace the challenges of living in a developing country. I must adjust to this inconvenience as I have literally no control over the situation. It is during these times I learn my patience level and the effectiveness of Secret Ultra Dry. The other night my phone battery died when I was FaceTiming with Alex. Perhaps the desert heat finally got to me, but I was staring at my stupid iPhone for ten minutes, wondering why so many people worship this device when it can't even hold a charge when it is plugged in.

...I just heard the beautiful and rhythmic call to prayer and it reminded me that people survived without this luxury for thousands of years. But I still swear at the electricity gods when I am not able to see "Who Wore It Best" in the semi-latest US Weekly magazine AND I can't find the toilet paper roll.

Flat 20 by dark 

ma'a salama,
hillstead

DeNile of Greatness

Sunset on the Nile River
Cairo, Egypt 

There are four stages people tend to experience when they live abroad. The first stage is the "honeymoon"-one is ready to explore this new adventure, oozing with endorphins. I am finally seeing glimpses of that stage amidst what I refer to as the "funk" stage (also known as the hostility stage). I tend to feel very depressed when I know I will be far away for an extended period of time-deeply homesick, looking up flights to return home and crying myself to sleep after popping an entire xanax, because half a pill simply won't cut it.

I am truly grateful for the ex-pat Hayah community (shout-outs to Siri and her family, Simon, Michelle, Mary, Zuzana, Dimitri & Amanda and Ma'adi local Sayeed for keeping me busy these past six days. I cannot believe that I was ready to leave my rent-free apartment (shady, but free) and miss out on having dinner at the Grand Cafe on the Corniche, watching the sun set on the Nile and ending the night with a falucka ride, peacefully floating on the river with a coffee mug of Egyptian white wine.

If I could pin point when I finally started to feel like myself again, it would have to be when I was roaming the furniture aisles in IKEA in New Cairo, about a half mile away from Hayah International Academy. I don't know if it was my Swedish roots speaking to me or the smell of a bargain, but I felt at peace for the first time since arriving. I cannot wait to go back now that I have the motivation to charge my credit card for home goods. Items on the list include an assortment of scented candles as a light source when the power goes out (five to six times a day).  

I am truly grateful for my mom, dad, Alex, Fuss, Michael and Christine back home who encouraged me to get out of bed and start experiencing this unique opportunity in Cairo. They were witness to my disgusting cry face (seriously, who looks cute when they cry?) and yet still were able to look at me and give their unconditional love and support. I realized as I was curled up in the fetal position and rocking back and forth that life is about spending time with the ones I love, which is part of why I questioned staying here, thinking my gut was telling me this was a mistake. But I need to give Cairo an honest effort and embrace the healthy challenges ahead of me. I am now facing the struggle to move in to a new flat, which will be taken care of by the beginning of September...Inshallah.

I am off to finish my second cup of tea at the cafe across the street, check Facebook & have some leftover beef schwerma while I watch It's Always Sunny in Philadelphia. It is times like these where I don't feel so far away from home.

ma'a salama,
hillstead